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Purple Pinky Eater 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Cody Scarpella, Greg Garretson, 8/08
Page Views: 2,068
Submitted By: Wally Fox on Jun 3, 2010

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A double crack leads to a technical seam stem problem with various openings just big enough for finger tips.


Just to the right of squiggles.


The double crack will take one and two inch pieces. When you reach the seam, purple and blue metolius tcu's or just run it out to the horizontal, which will take an orange metolius.

Comments on Purple Pinky Eater Add Comment
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By Wally Fox
Sep 21, 2010

running it out to the horizontal would be super bold, something I would never do.
By Dave E.
From: washington
Oct 13, 2010

beta!!! there is a decent left hand, thumbsdown fingerlock about halfway through the crux that can be tremendously helpfull
By Alex Shainman
Jun 2, 2013

Moderate start to sequential stemming/bridging/palming/tips moves in the crux followed by a not as exciting but fun headwall finish. The inside of the crux crack is still kinda crunchy so it makes you work a little more to get the pro perfect. Start is mostly #2 Camalots but you could place a #1 & #3 too. Sew up the crux with (3) #0 & (1) #1 TCU's and/or Master Cams, or #0-#1 C3's, etc...I used a #1 & #3 Camalot and a #1 TCU for the remainder.
By Brett Yost
From: Bend, Oregon
Mar 2, 2015

I worked this a bit in '03/04 but wasn't that close. Glad to see it made it in the .12 range, I don't feel too bad. The thin fingers and slots were tearing me up and the feet were desperately gritty I was sorely tempted to give it a wire brushing or light pinning. But Jeff and everyone were sending everything ground up, old school, no hanging and I wasn't going to be the first to break down and dog.

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