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Purple People Eater 

YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: FA: Glenn Ritter, FA Direct: James Litz
Page Views: 284
Submitted By: Taylor Roy on Dec 20, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Purple People Eater- 13a/b.

Description 

A extremely steep route that climbs past four tiered roofs- each containing a tough boulder problem.

Scramble up a slightly chossy slab past two bolts(not fixed) to the base of the first roof. Reach over the roof to a decent crimp and deadpoint for a good slot. Take a quick shake, then reach over the second roof to a series of scalloped crimps(crux), fire for another slot and take a rest at some jugs in the third roof. When ready, use small edges and some fancy footwork to flow over the third roof.

At this point you can do two finishes. Either go straight up on small edges and dyno to a jug below the anchors(13b) or keep moving right to a good rail, then make a few more hard moves before moving back left to the anchors(13a).

Location 

70 feet left of Tang.

Protection 

Bolts and a two bolt anchor. Most of the bolts are fixed with old-school webbing perma-draws, so inspect them before trusting your life to them.


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By Taylor Roy
From: Midvale, UT
Dec 29, 2015

Climber does 13a finish.

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