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Chockstone Corridor - South Summit
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Purple Pawn 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 220'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a R [details]
FA: Andy Busse and Britton Vidal Circa 2011 (Ground Up)
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall. AM sun. PM shade.
Page Views: 36
Submitted By: BBQ on Mar 24, 2017

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Description 

A hella great two star route that no one will ever do, but everyone should really put it on their tick list anyway. Not too hard to find! If you are on the south eastern side of The Chockstone Corridor you will see a darkly colored rampy formation to your right. Mantle and scramble up this delightful five sixish slab placing sparse amounts of pro whenever possible. Hint! Ballnuts rule! Gain yourself a hand crack (in the middle of the formation) that is surprisingly super duper. Swim and flail your way through a crux that can only be described as unique. Gain another hella run out section of slab and find a safe way to reach the chains on the summit of this massive formation. Spend some time on the summit enjoying the view. You could have a chess tournament up there.

Location 

This is one of the first routes you will find after approaching the more northenly masses of rock on the old mountaineer trail.

Protection 

Not much, but bring a standard rack anyway. Leaders will want to build an anchor in a strange vertical crack on a summit that seems to be a long way away from the chains but isn't. An 80 meter will get you down using a Needles Style Rappel. Bring lots of long leaver slings if NSR is not your style.


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