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East Gate Buttress
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Unsorted Routes:

Purple Horizons 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Drew Bedford & Bill Sherman, 1983
Page Views: 253
Submitted By: Derrick W on May 27, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Purple Horizons

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Starts off with a romp up a shallow right facing corner that doesn't protect very well. Step up to a stance below the imposing, steep, right angling dihedral and fire in a couple pieces. Reach up and place a critical brass nut before committing to the crux: 10 feet of small underclings and smaller smears culminating in a reach to the thank god handjam. Thing ease back from here but the climbing stays fun and engaging to the top.

Location 

The obvious small right angling corner 20 feet uphill from snowflakes.

Protection 

A single rack of cams from tiny to #3 and a set of brassies. Offset nuts may help with protecting the bottom corner and you'll want a 2 and a 3 for the upper section. Bolted anchors with chains at the top.


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By bheller
From: SL UT
Aug 29, 2016

With tenuous stances, and sparce micro specific gear that is difficult to place, this route is more deserving of an R rating upgrade than many routes that already have it.

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