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Purple Galaxy
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Purple Galaxy 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Paul Piana
Page Views: 4,415
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on May 25, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (43)
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Tanner Jones taking a small rest before the busine...


Purple Galaxy busts some bouldery initial climbing up to and past the first bolt, followed by some great sequential pocket pulling. It slowly eases off as you approach the 1st set of chains. Keep going though! The upper bulge adds a nice little punch to the end of the route, with some pumpy climbing and some last minute decision making. For those who track the numbers, probably soft at 12a to the 1st set of anchors, but solid if you take the full ride.8


This is the first long route (over 4-5 bolts) on the wall, located on a nice purple section of the wall, just before and to the right of a low prow / arete feature. If you see a boltrd left facing dihedral, you've just passed it.


8 bolts to 1st anchor and 4 more to final anchor, so 13-14 bolts + anchor for the full pitch. Over 25m to top anchor! So 60m rope or mid anchor pit stop needed.

Photos of Purple Galaxy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Trumpet Face
Trumpet Face
Rock Climbing Photo: All smiles on a good line.
All smiles on a good line.
Rock Climbing Photo: Nice hat, eh?
Nice hat, eh?

Comments on Purple Galaxy Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nick Stayner
From: Wymont Kingdom
Oct 31, 2011

After climbing this thing a couple of times, one has to wonder how "enhanced" those super duper deep monos are. I'd choose to feign ignorance, because this thing has some outstanding climbing!
By Phill T
May 14, 2012

you dont have to use the two monos, there are definitely ways around them for those of us that dont have pulleys of steel. getting off the ground is greasy as hell and I'd say the crux of the route, recommend stick clipping the 2nd bolt (the first you can clip from the ground).
By tanner jones
Oct 17, 2012

aka the purple monster
By Simon W
From: Nowhere Land
Jul 21, 2017

The send doesn't count if the cheater stone pile is more than 6-8" tall =P In my case I could reach through the hardest move to a finger lock with a 2' stack of cheater stones so sent it back from whence it came!

Luckily for me I "use" the monos but I never have to pull on them.

The extension is worthwhile, and unless you are ruthlessly pumped at the first anchor, it's worth shaking out and continuing.

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