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Purina and Careno Area

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Big Ben Tower 
Black Power 
Careno Crag 
Purina Crags 

Purina and Careno Area Rock Climbing 

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Elevation: 2,067'
Location: 47.54921, -120.70524 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 14,170
Administrators: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jon Nelson on Aug 22, 2015
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This area includes a cluster of small cliffs known as Purina and Black Power, and further up the hill is Careno Crag.

Most routes face south and east. They are mostly moderate single pitch trad routes, with some bolted routes.

They are great in the early or late season because this area stays dryer and the snow melts sooner than further up canyon. But quite hot in the summer because they mostly face south.
Has afternoon shade where facing east.

Getting There 

Directly across the road (north side) from the Snow Creek trailhead parking lot (where you will need a NFS pass). But you can park along the road for free.

The best trail starts at the dirtbike-trials-type trail, about 200 feet east of the Leavenworth Water building on east end of parking lot.
There is a seep that is wet usually all year, the trail left goes up to Poison Ivy crack and planet of the eights.
The right branch heads up to Purina and Careno.

Climbing Season

Weather station 4.6 miles from here

42 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',19],['2 Stars',17],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Purina and Careno Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Purina and Careno Area:
Ordinary Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 60'   Purina Crags
Make mine a bold one   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Purina Crags
Surveillance of Assailants   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   Purina Crags
El Caliente   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 65'   Purina Crags
just another sucker on the vine   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Purina Crags
Glass Eye   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Purina Crags
poison ivy crack   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   Purina Crags
Careno Corners   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 450'   Careno Crag
Existential Exit   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 70'   Purina Crags
Heave Ho   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Careno Crag
Exotic Dancer   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Careno Crag
Cool Struttin'   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Careno Crag
Pocketmeister   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Careno Crag
Regular Route   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 4 pitches   Careno Crag
Bale/Kramar route   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 4 pitches, 450'   Careno Crag
A Swingin' Affair   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 100'   Careno Crag
Killer B's   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 70'   Careno Crag
Pumpline   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Careno Crag
An Exotic Affair   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Careno Crag
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Purina and Careno Area

Featured Route For Purina and Careno Area
Rock Climbing Photo: Pumpline, circa 1994.  Lookin' good now, but momen...

Pumpline 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c  Washington : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : ... : Careno Crag
For years, this has been one of the Icicle’s trad testpieces at the grade. Thin climbing up a thin corner with some thin gear leads to a brief but burly off-fingers crux pulling a bulge. Hope you can make the exit look elegant. I couldn’t.This climb was written up in a 1988 Rock & Ice article by Alison Osius, who’d once spent a summer guiding for Leavenworth Alpine Guides (LAG) and had come back to revisit old friends:"For my last day, Katie [Kemble] trudged me up a loose hillside to a ‘w...[more]   Browse More Classics in Washington

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