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Purgatory

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Believer S 
Dracula '04 S 
Fallen Angel T 
Fat Man's Misery T 
Gimp, The S 
Gluttony S 
Hellraiser S 
Jumbo Shrimp S 
Paradise Lost S 
Special Boy S 

Purgatory Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 37.65343, -83.70746 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 6,940
Administrators: Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike, saxfiend, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Oct 19, 2009
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Description 

Morning sun.

Many of the routes are climbable in the rain.

A couple of 5.10's, a couple of 5.11's, a couple of 5.12-'s, 3 5.13b's and one of the hardest routes in the gorge, Lucifer 5.14c.

Very pretty wall but a long walk in. Not likely to be crowded but if it is there are not many routes to choose from so if you show up and there arer a bunch of people there you may want ot head back to one of the other areas that are near by.

Getting There 

Follow the signs from the parking area. Once you are on the road it tapers to a trail once you are past most of the areas and you have to cross two little drainages on this tril before you turn up left ot the cliff which is signed.

Once you reach the wall, there are a few trad lines to the left but most of the routes arer to the right, through a tunnel formed by the wall and a boulder.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.4 miles from here

10 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',3],['5.12',2],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Purgatory

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Purgatory:
Believer   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 60'   
Gluttony   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 70'   
Hellraiser   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 60'   
Paradise Lost   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 60'   
Dracula '04   5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Purgatory

Featured Route For Purgatory
Rock Climbing Photo: Gluttony.

Gluttony 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  Kentucky : Red River Gorge : ... : Purgatory
Head up the slab past a bolt and then reaching out left to clip bolts on the face. Eventually traverse out onto the face and climb small but positive pockets up the wall. Some holds lead up and right near the top of the route and they get better just before the anchors.There are some loose looking holds on this route so beware.Also there are 2 places to traverse onto the face, choose wisely....[more]   Browse More Classics in Kentucky

Photos of Purgatory Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Routes from left to right: Dracula '04 Lucifer The...
BETA PHOTO: Routes from left to right: Dracula '04 Lucifer The...

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