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Purgatory Rock

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Light of Salvation T 
Purified Fingers T 

Purgatory Rock Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 8,700'
Location: 39.25291, -105.0917 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 296
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Furthermore on Oct 1, 2016
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Description 

Purgatory Rock is just south of the Recovery Wall and offers a variety of short trad climbs. I didn't notice any developed sport routes yet. The top of the formation offers great views of Sin City, Devil's Rejects, and Jackson Creek Valley.

This area falls into the seasonal falcon closure at Devil's Head and is closed from March 1 to July 31.

Getting There 

Drive ~13 miles south of the Rampart Range Road – well past the turn for the Devil's Head lookout tower trail and camping area. After a set of sharp switchbacks, turn left onto Jackson Creek Road (FS 502), and drive ~1.5 miles to a primitive campsite on the left, just past a meadow. If you reach the turn for the closed Jackson Creek campground on the right, you have driven too far.

Start up the Recovery Wall trail (the trail that climbs west out of the campsite), but before turning north to Recovery Wall, begin bushwhacking west-southwest to a valley behind Recovery Wall. Climb along the eastern edge of the valley to reach Purgatory Rock. Scramble around a saddle on the north side of the formation to reach a selection of unclimbed offwidths.

Climbing Season

For the Devil's Head area.

Weather station 6.7 miles from here

2 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Purgatory Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Purgatory Rock:
Light of Salvation   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 35'   
Purified Fingers   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 35'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Purgatory Rock

Featured Route For Purgatory Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: Hand crack to finish.

Light of Salvation 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  Colorado : South Platte : ... : Purgatory Rock
This climb is on the western side of Purgatory Rock. Scramble up to a ledge (class 3) at the base of two parallel cracks. Light of Salvation climbs the left hand crack. Good hands guide you to a ledge halfway up the climb. From the ledge, climb through a pocket of chossy rock (crux) to a perfect hand crack.Carefully choose your anchor location to avoid the rope feeding directly through the crack. The crack loves to eat ropes on a lower or TR. It's best to have someone follow ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

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