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Pure Palm 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Alan Watts 1984
Page Views: 16,731
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Mar 7, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (111)
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Sean feeling through some pure palm

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


Amazing stemming test piece of the Lower Gorge.
Stem and palm (duh) your way up the wide stem box.


Left of On The Road and right of Cornicopia.



Photos of Pure Palm Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The top crux
The top crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Fishing for holds (turns out there aren't any) on ...
Fishing for holds (turns out there aren't any) on ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Clipping up Pure Palm
Clipping up Pure Palm
Rock Climbing Photo: clip and don't slip
clip and don't slip
Rock Climbing Photo: a finger lock?
a finger lock?
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting Pure Palm
Starting Pure Palm
Rock Climbing Photo: palming, but of course
palming, but of course
Rock Climbing Photo: Pure Palm
Pure Palm
Rock Climbing Photo: stemming queen
stemming queen
Rock Climbing Photo: she loves it!
she loves it!

Comments on Pure Palm Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 25, 2015
By C Miller
From: CA
Mar 7, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This classic stemming problem has no real crux, just continuously difficult movement that makes it a blast to climb and will leave a smile on your face.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Oct 22, 2006
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This is some crazy fun stuff. Expect a little thrill reaching the fourth bolt - just far enough above the last bolt to get your attention. I couldn't wipe the smile off my face after leading this....
By Peter Franzen
General Admin
From: Phoenix, AZ
Sep 1, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I took a nice fall on the 3rd bolt; Andy is right about a nice little gap with a couple of no-turning-back moves before the 4th.

Stellar route!
By Alexander
From: Los Angeles
Jun 24, 2010

This is the most fun 11A ever in my book. I couldn't believe how wicked the whole thing was all the way to the anchors, it was such a welcome departure from face climbs in other areas. What a great route.
By Chalu Kim
Sep 19, 2013

This is a must climb in the lower gorge. This climb will make your feet work. Great training climb if anything. Do laps. Don't use anchors for top roping.
By Scott Goodwin
From: Seattle, WA
Sep 23, 2013

This is among my favorite climbs ever, anywhere, any time. An absolute classic. An absolute must-do, though I suppose you'll either love it or hate it, depending on your climbing prefs.
By Johnny Y
From: California
Oct 9, 2014

So much fun!

I was told that the original FA was done on pins, and when they put in the bolts, they were placed at the same level to preserve the clipping stance. I can't imagine leading this on gear.
By Matt Farrell
From: Bend, Oregon
Oct 11, 2014
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Watch the leader going for the 4th bolt. Many people consider this the first crux (the second coming around the last bolt). If your belayer is light and the leader is heavy and they bail from right below the fourth bolt it is possible to hit the belayer. Stay attentive and it will be fine.

If you want to TR this without leading, you can sneak over from the top of Cornercopia. Its not the easiest traverse ever though, and long arms really help...
By Muscrat
Dec 13, 2014
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

If you are 5'5" with a -1 ape index (partner) this gets really really hard at the top! Over 6', just a pure pump. Ouch!
By nicktucker
From: Portland, OR
Jun 30, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This route is awesome!! It seems this routes difficulty is a bit height dependent as I'm 5'11", and I didn't have nearly as hard a time with it as one of my shorter friends. He's 5'4" and undoubtedly a stronger climber than I am.
By Backwards Eric
Oct 25, 2015

Super fun route! Reminds me of pitch 2 of El Matador on Devils Tower, but shorter and a little closer together so you can actually stem with your hands too.

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