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The Winchester Cave
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7 P.M. Show S 
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Puppy Love S 
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Puppy Love 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b R [details]
FA: Rob Candelaria
Page Views: 777
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Nov 28, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Description 

This is the route immediately right of the mega-classic Ricochet on the tall, vertical wall above the talus field as you approach the Winchester Cave. It's not as good as Richochet and doesn't see much traffic; nevertheless, it's a cool, vertical excursion on varied stone.

Start in the overhanging, obtuse corner and fire bouldery moves past a pair of hard clips to gain the vertical face above. Most of the serious-type climbing is up on this face, with the occasional run-out on 5.10 territory and the potential for some ledgy falls should you blow it. Beware of loose holds and a coating of lichen/dust on the rock, as this route runs seasonally with water.

Protection 

10-12 quickdraws and a 60 meter rope.


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By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Nov 29, 2001

I would second Matt's use of the "s" rating and give Puppy Love credit for interesting and challenging climbing. While it has been several years since I have been on PL, my recollection is that the run-outs occur largely in the upper half of the route and are on 5.10 climbing. A little more traffic would solve any remaining lichen issues, however, one can also carry a small brush and contribute a bit to the cleaning.
By Richard Border
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 25, 2016
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This route seems underrated popularity-wise and overrated difficulty/safety-wise--I'd say 12a PG-13. Basically felt like Richochet, with a burly overhanging start and without Richochet's face cruxes, albeit on dirtier rock with a couple extra ledges. Definitely fun and worth doing, especially considering that there's often a line for its neighbor. Would be even better with more traffic. You probably want to stick clip the first bolt or two.

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