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Near End of Sunshine Wall (aka Twin Cracks Area)
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Puppies in the Blender T 
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Puppies in the Blender 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bill Robins, Paul Certa, May 1988
Page Views: 305
Submitted By: geoff georges on Feb 10, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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BETA PHOTO: John starting up Puppies in the Blender. We found ...

Description 

This is a great crack with a few loose bits. I cleaned some large rocks out of it in 2012, cleaner now. Like many cracks at Vantage, it has undulations that would take hexes well. It does not have the usual many face holds so the crack is quite sustained with many creative positions to find rests.

Location 

There is an alcove sloping up above the trail with Bob Dylan on the left, this is on the right side. There is a 10a crack left of it and a wide 5.8 left of that. This crack is furthest out to the arete on the right. there is a short tower with bolts on it, that used to be Herms tower, that someone pushed over.

Protection 

Gear to 2.5"
Bolted anchor I added in 2015.
I could have used 4-5 #.75 camalots if I had them.Hexes and nuts work well in the constrictions. The bulk of the route is all .5, .75 and #1 camalot.


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By Jplotz
From: Wenatchee, WA
May 23, 2016

I would avoid this pitch. Sorry Geoff! Thanks for the anchors. But the crack down low is dangerously crumbly, and there is a football sized sharp block 2/3 of the way up the route that is ready to come out. Highly stressful pitch for the value.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
May 23, 2016

No offense taken, but it's Vantage, didn't seem that bad to me. I tried to pry that block out, it seems to be wedged. Now, Bob Dylan ( the route ) scares me more, those stacked blocks at the top- yikes.

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