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Upper Security Risk
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
"S" Buttress, The T 
Cold Shot S 
Cracking the Code S 
Crash Test Blondes S 
Friendly Fire T 
Get Smart T 
Hot Flyer S 
Hot Wire S 
Juice, The S 
Just A Little Insecure S 
Led Astray S 
Plan B S 
Pup S,TR 
S Buttress Direct T 


YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Rick Leitner
Page Views: 1,931
Submitted By: Friso Schlottau on Jan 1, 2001

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  • Description 

    This route is on the left side of Upper Security Risk. First clip is a bit odd - bring a tall friend or a clip stick if you are pushing it on this grade. Follow the bolts. This route can be climbed to set TR for Crash Test Blondes (5.11c).


    9 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.

    Comments on Pup Add Comment
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    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Sep 12, 2002
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    Sure felt harder than 5.9 to get to the first clip, but I am not very tall. My 5'6" partner though it was VERY hard. The higher crux felt like 5.9 though, for both of us.
    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Dec 8, 2002

    To make the first clip, place a small cam--green or yellow Alien. Then step right to a foothold from the block on the left. Don't climb from below (that's hard).

    I thought the rest of the route was quite easy but very nice. The first clip is also easy if done as described above.
    By Steve Annecone
    From: boulder
    Oct 25, 2003

    A good route and very useful as a warm up for some of the nearby routes. However, it's very unfortunate that this route includes so many bolts within inches of easily protectable cracks.

    Tom Hayes and I put up the S Buttress in 1993 on natural gear about a year or so before Pup went in. The S Buttress starts at the same place as Pup but goes straight up instead of right near the first bolt on Pup, then traverses in where the 4th bolt is located, then goes up the same line from there.Really no need for bolts at all above the 3rd, a standard rack enables very safe gear placements.
    By Kevin Neilson
    From: Boulder
    Jun 16, 2005
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    The first clip is most easily placed from the stemming position described, but may be difficult for shorter people. I really liked this route. It had a lot of nice laybacking. I thought it was on the high end of 5.9 in terms of difficulty.
    By Bruce Hildenbrand
    Oct 20, 2007

    The two anchor bolts at the top of this route were poorly placed, one bolt being about a foot higher, but also six inches to the left of the other bolt. With several quicklinks and links of 3/8" chain, I was able to create a situation where both bolts are both about equally loaded. Now, if one bolt fails, the other should not be shock loaded.

    The welded cold shut on the lower bolt is definitely showing signs of wear, hopefully this was because of the improper placement of the bolts and not because someone is belaying and lowering directly through the anchor. I was not able to figure out how the lower of two cold shuts would be the one to show wear unless people were clipping a draw into the upper bolt and threading the rope through the lower cold shut which would create an equalized anchor.
    By Jeff Welch
    From: Denver, CO
    Aug 8, 2015
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    A stick clip is wise here.
    By Bruce Hildenbrand
    Sep 29, 2015

    Dale Haas and I did some anchor renovation on this route. We removed the upper cold shut and bolt. We also replaced the cold shut hanger on the lower bolt with a SS Fixe. We added a new bolt, Powers SS, next to the lower bolt and added SS Quick Links and SS rap rings to both bolts. The hardware for this project was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association(ASCA - Support of the ASCA is greatly appreciated.
    By Paul Hunnicutt
    From: Boulder, CO
    Nov 15, 2015
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

    Thanks, Dale and Bruce, for the new anchor. We were up on Plan B when you were replacing. Really appreciate the effort!!! Went up today and saw the nice shiny new equalized anchor bolts.

    Direct start was very hard for me. Green and yellow Aliens protect it well, but climbing straight up the crack (instead of "cheating" the start using the blocks out left and moving back right above the crack) is solid 5.10, if not a low 5.11 move on those thin finger locks. Not much for feet getting off the ground. Felt harder than any move on the upper section of Get Smart. Maybe I am just missing something obvious though or too short (5'9" in shoes). Easy to place the cams, then clip the 1st, then back clean the cams. 5.9 minus the "direct" start sounds about right for Bocan.

    There are several spots for small cams and nuts on the way up if you feel like doing a mixed trad lead.

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