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Eagle Bluff
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Unsorted Routes:

Punks in the Gunks 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Ward Smith and Dave Jones
Page Views: 1,134
Submitted By: Matty Zane on Mar 2, 2009

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Description 

Unique for clifton, this route offers positive holds and pumpy climbing through the largest roof at the cliff. P1 passes through a couple "bivy ledges" aiming for a right facing flake with a bolt. After the flake, look left for a bolted belay on a large blocky ledge. P2 Take on the daunting diamond shaped roof, by traversing right past fixed gear and some bolts.

Location 

Starts directly behind the Oak tree by the roofs section--impossible to miss--this climb takes on the largest roof in the section.

Protection 

Mostly fixed gear. bring small gear.


Comments on Punks in the Gunks Add Comment
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By Matty Zane
From: Freedom
Oct 31, 2009

did this route earlier this summer, and i must say its one of my favorite in the area. If your looking to get a pump, and get away from the clifton tweakers, this is a must do!!!
By Dom
Administrator
From: New Brunswick Canada
Mar 31, 2011

Where do you start this route? Do you start on bivy route? I looked to the left of Bivy route and it looked really dirty...
By Matty Zane
From: Freedom
Apr 25, 2011

The left variation is the original start, but is wicked dirty. The best way to do the route is to climb bivy route to its anchor, then make your way left under the roof to a pin, which is the start punks. Mosty bolts and pins, maybe a small or medium sized cam.