REI Community
Eagle Bluff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
38 and Drug Free TR 
All Seriousness Aside  S 
Alleyway T 
Amber Waves of Grain S 
Another Bolted Face Climb S 
Apple Jam T 
Attitude Adjuster T 
Bivy Route S 
Blaze of Glory S 
Bloody Phalanges S 
Chinese Water Torture Direct S 
Climb Out or Ground Out S 
Corner Line T 
Crankcase T,S,TR 
Delirious S 
Dirty Meat S 
Down Under S 
Eagle Direct T,S 
Eagle Has Landed, The S 
Eagle's Gift, The S 
Easy Stuff T 
Eavesy Stuff T 
Element 115 S 
Entrance Exam S 
Flake to Nowhere T 
Happy Face S 
Hard Stuff T,TR 
Highlander S 
Jack the Dripper T 
Longitudinal Wave S 
Maine Bound Memorial Route T 
No Rest for the Wicked S 
Only Frontier, The T 
Pried and Joy T,S 
Punks in the Gunks T,S 
Rainy Day Deliverance T 
Reckless Abandon S 
Root of Choice T 
Route Awakening S 
Scrappy Face S 
Seamless TR 
Short Stuff T 
Slice of the Gunks T 
Squeezed In TR 
Stevie's Spanking S 
Talus Scout S,TR 
Tax Is Too Steep, The S,TR 
Texas Two Step T,S 
Upside down staircase T 
Walk on the Mild Side S 
Wave Guide S 
What's In a Name? S 
Wheaties S 
Where Eagles Dare T 
Witch Wonder T 
Unsorted Routes:

Punks in the Gunks 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Ward Smith and Dave Jones
Page Views: 1,201
Submitted By: Matty Zane on Mar 2, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Your help needed to keep this crag open! MORE INFO >>>


Unique for clifton, this route offers positive holds and pumpy climbing through the largest roof at the cliff. P1 passes through a couple "bivy ledges" aiming for a right facing flake with a bolt. After the flake, look left for a bolted belay on a large blocky ledge. P2 Take on the daunting diamond shaped roof, by traversing right past fixed gear and some bolts.


Starts directly behind the Oak tree by the roofs section--impossible to miss--this climb takes on the largest roof in the section.


Mostly fixed gear. bring small gear.

Comments on Punks in the Gunks Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matty Zane
From: Freedom
Oct 31, 2009

did this route earlier this summer, and i must say its one of my favorite in the area. If your looking to get a pump, and get away from the clifton tweakers, this is a must do!!!
By Dom
From: New Brunswick Canada
Mar 31, 2011

Where do you start this route? Do you start on bivy route? I looked to the left of Bivy route and it looked really dirty...
By Matty Zane
From: Freedom
Apr 25, 2011

The left variation is the original start, but is wicked dirty. The best way to do the route is to climb bivy route to its anchor, then make your way left under the roof to a pin, which is the start punks. Mosty bolts and pins, maybe a small or medium sized cam.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About