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Punishment For Shoplifting 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Ken Trout, 1992
Page Views: 2,078
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jan 13, 2001

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Just through the hard start on Punishment for Shop...

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Punishment for Shoplifting starts 15 - 20 feet left of the blackish water streak that has Psycho Hose Beast running right up it. A slightly airy first clip with a burly move launches the route. Follow up a corner/seam system for six or seven clips on great stone, well protected, and equipped with a host of good moves. Edges and laybacks. The exit at the top of the corner/seam seemed a bit spooky inasmuch as the moves were a bit in-obvious, however, a near horizontal crack just below the anchors will provide a fine answer for the finish, if you look around for the feet. This fine line is well worth two stars, and well worth the short hike.


QDs only. This 70 foot route needs 8 - 10 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 12, 2017
By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 5, 2002

Good route. The crux is after the 1st bolt, although the finish is not obvious. There is lots of deciphering for such a short route. Full value.
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 30, 2002

Has anyone been on the route directly to the left of this route? It is a great route, slightly overhanging at the bottom to a sweet face crux at the top. 8 bolts to anchors. Probably 12d? Anyone?
By richard magill
Sep 9, 2004
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Fun and a bit spooky in places. Lots of slightly, slopey holds.
By richard magill
Sep 9, 2004
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I also got on the 12 just left of this route. Great line: 3 stars. Rolofson's guide lists it as a "5.12? project". I was thinking 12b or 12c, but I don't know - it has a wicked crux.

Does anyone know the name or ostensible rating or whether or not it is still a project? It seems unlikely that it hasn't been sent yet. I didn't send it - but I will soon.
By Greaser
Sep 9, 2004

Richard, it has been red pointed, I sent it a few years ago (if we are talking about the same route) and I'm sure others have done so as well. [Equivalent] to a good [Shelf Road] 12b to me (not as hard as Oxamoxa, though). I am 6' with a slight positive ape index and it did make me stretch a bit. Great route.
By desbien
From: seattle,wa
Apr 8, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Lots of deciphering. Easy to get pumped out on the not so obvious finish. Not nearly as fun as Reefer Madness down the slope or Schwing Salute.
By dan scales
From: Denver, CO
Apr 24, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Ok climb. Got on it today, was pretty wet at the ledge traverse. Scared me a little, heady. All in all, fun.
By Ben Cassedy
From: Denver, CO
May 3, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

That last traverse was scary! Damn!
By Sean Wolf
From: Denver, CO
Apr 13, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Ya, the traverse got me spooked as well. Super fun, do it!
By Train4life
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 28, 2015
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

A bolt needs to be added to this route. It is after the bolt after the ledge. You clip the first bolt safely, but then there is a little more than an 8 foot run to the next bolt. Not hard climbing, but if you're climbing this grade, you WILL hit the ledge and deck. Not fun to do! A simple addition of a bolt would boost this route from a bomb to probably a 2 or 3 star route!
By slim
Sep 29, 2015
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Man, I agree. I have done this one a few times and always really dislike that part. I usually bring a yellow or maybe red Alien. It's not hard there but kind of not super solid either.
By Dakota S.
From: Denver, CO
Aug 12, 2017
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I'd have to agree. This routes needs to be better protected at the start, it's asking for someone to get hurt. Think it's a little hard for the grade also. It's either hard or the movement is awkward enough that it feels harder.

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