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The Wall - Right Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chalk Up Another One T 
Damn Jam T 
Good to the Last Drop T 
Pumping Ego T 

Pumping Ego 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Alan Nelson, Mike Beck, Diane Pitts & Karl Mueller, 12/29/80
Page Views: 612
Submitted By: C Miller on Jul 6, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: The Wall (Right Side) with a climber on Chalk Up A...

Description 

Climb a ways up to the first bolt (1/2"), do the crux and then wander upwards on steep slab past three more bolts to the top. Gear belay and scramble/downclimb off to the climber's right (fastest being along the margin of the wall just right of this climb).

A worthwhile and fun route worth doing while in the area which is not nearly as greasy as it's neighbor to the left.

In a very rare and commendable move Alan replaced the bolts on this and all the other routes he put up in Joshua Tree; if more people took the time and effort to replace the old bolts on their routes places like Josh would be even nicer and certainly much safer - thanks a ton Alan!

Location 

Found on the right-hand section of The Wall, this is the bolted route just right of Chalk Up Another One (5.10a) and the last climb encountered before the face ends in a jumble of stacked blocks.

Protection 

4 bolts (1/2", 3/8"), pro to 3" for anchor


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By Woody Stark
Feb 5, 2005

I strongly suggest that one approach this route from the first two bolts on "Chalk up another One". If the leader pops off the other side of the buttress-no protection, it will be grim.
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jul 8, 2006
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

A bit run to the first bolt, immediately afterwhich is the bulging crux move(s).
By Adam Kimmerly
May 12, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Agree with the previous comments - the moves to the first bolt are no walk in the park. Falling from the very committing crux, while not a long fall, wouldn't be much fun either. The climbing eases considerably after the crux moves and is relatively well protected.
By Fat Dad
From: Los Angeles, CA
Jan 22, 2009

While I did this route when young and stupid, I haven't since been willing to commit to making the dicey moves to the first bolt. If you're short (I'm 5'7"), it's a blind, committing reach that if you flub, well...you'll be talus food. Too bad because the climbing higher up is pretty nice.