REI Community
The Ultimates
Select Route:
Brown Nosing T 
Hitchhiker T 
Knot What It Seams T 
Lorax, The T 
Pumphouse Primer T 
Teddy Bear's Picnic T 
Twist of Fate T 
Ultimate Dihedral T 
Ultimate Dirty Sanchez, The T 
Ultimate Finger Crack T 
Ultimate Frisbee T 
Ultimate OW T 
Ultimator, The T 
White Wedding T 
Young Guns T 

Pumphouse Primer 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: D.Mabe, J.Mosher, R.Brown
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,274
Submitted By: Darren Mabe on May 13, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Jonathan Mosher on the second ascent of Pumphouse ...


This is an enjoyable and rare moderate addition and warm-up to the Ultimate circuit, in a stunning location.

The hardest moves are off the ground. If you are resourceful, you can reach a good nut placement and starting finger lock. Continue up the left facing corner hand crack with three more steep and short cruxes including a brief wide section near the top. Bolted anchor is on a sloping ledge near small tree underneath obvious squeeze.


P.P. is on the south facing side, downstream from White Wedding less than 5 minutes and before the deep pool drop-off.


to protect for the grade: a medium stopper, a couple finger size cams, 2-3X C4 #0.5-2, a couple #3s, and even a #4 is handy.

Photos of Pumphouse Primer Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pumphouse Primer. Anchors are located below the la...
BETA PHOTO: Pumphouse Primer. Anchors are located below the la...

Comments on Pumphouse Primer Add Comment
Show which comments
By Robbie Brown
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 26, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

A classic moderate for the area!
By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Jun 25, 2013

I wish I had a #4 to protect the squeeze. It fits in a sandy horizontal crack at start of squeeze. I downclimbed it and gave him the lead; Mike used a #3 instead;

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About