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Pumphouse Park 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Max Tepfer, 7/4/16
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 835
Submitted By: Max Tepfer on Jul 4, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: The line.

Seasonal Raptor Closure starts Jan 15 each year; No top access - private land MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route should get way more traffic than it does. Overall the movement is easier than hardest moves on Alchemy, but it's a bit more sustained. Regardless this thing is a classic at a grade that there aren't enough of around here. Get on it!

Start up Fingerlings and follow it to the jug/rest on the right. At the jug, hand traverse right to the next crack over and battle up an intricate combination of stemming and lie-backing. Get back what you can below the roof before pulling a wild sequence on hidden holds to turn the lip.

It's easy to set up a TR for the low crux from Fingerlings or climb Fingerlings into the top of the route. Additionally, the roof sequence is easily avoided to the left on somewhat hollow 5.9 terrain. (but it's really, really fun, so you shouldn't skip it)

Location 

Start as for Fingerlings.

Protection 

Gear to 1.5", Mostly tips. Small wires are useful.


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Rock Climbing Photo: A friend's selfie while seconding after the FA...
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