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Pump-O-Rama 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Colin Lantz
Page Views: 12,262
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Sep 17, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (59)
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Photo: Tyler Casey. Climber: Will Sharp.

Description 

Pump-o-Rama climbs straight out the imposing middle of the Arsenal and is one of the steepest, longest cave routes in the Canyon. Besides a funky kneebar crux at mid-height, this route is a total jug haul, albeit a very strenuous one at a consistently roofy angle. But the holds are great -- giant underclings, incut rails, slopers, jug huecos and even a crimp or two -- and the climbing stays with you all the way to the anchor.

This route can be recognized by its position in the very center of the wall and is accessed by easy, ledgy climbing on a central sort of wide pillar to reach the first bolt at the start of the overhang. There is also a very long chain draw at the crux, about six bolts up.

Don't miss the swing off the anchors -- just make sure you get as high as the second bolt before you jump, otherwise you'll crater into the birm in front of the road.

Protection 

2 quickdraws -- one for the first bolt and another for the hell of it. The rest of the route is totally fixed with chain draws.


Photos of Pump-O-Rama Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Approach beta.
Approach beta.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sarah Watson on Pump-A-Rama.  James Lucas photo.
Sarah Watson on Pump-A-Rama. James Lucas photo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sarah Watson on Pump-A-Rama.  James Lucas photo.
Sarah Watson on Pump-A-Rama. James Lucas photo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pumporama in the Arsenal, Rifle.
Pumporama in the Arsenal, Rifle.
Rock Climbing Photo: ...and long.
...and long.
Rock Climbing Photo: It's pretty steep.
It's pretty steep.
Rock Climbing Photo: Low on the route.
Low on the route.
Rock Climbing Photo: Juggy fun: turning the lip of the cave. Photo by R...
Juggy fun: turning the lip of the cave. Photo by R...

Comments on Pump-O-Rama Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tom C
Jun 20, 2006

Any beta on where the double knee bar rest is under the roof (pre final pumpy 25 or so feet)?
By Hoez
From: Uganda
Sep 30, 2009
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

It's Pump-O-Rama...not Pump-a-Rama.
By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Apr 5, 2012

All bolts and anchors were rebolted with Fixe glue-ins courtesy of the ASCA. Quicklinks were also changed out. The work was prompted after the 5th bolt hanger fell off last fall due to the nut falling off from repeated whippers. As is often the case, it's unlikely any of the bolts were about to fail, but it should feel good to have fresh hardware to clip on this wall where sections seep profusely at times. One hanger was a little concerning, the second to last bolt, protecting the boulder problem crux at the top. See below. For more pictures of the old and new hardware: mountainproject.com/v/10751893...

Rock Climbing Photo: Altus titanium hanger that was on the crux (upper ...
Altus titanium hanger that was on the crux (upper crux) bolt of Pump-o-rama.
By Colin Lantz
From: Nederland, CO
Jul 27, 2012
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

The route is 12+ with the knee bar. On the FA, I didn't use it. A bit after the FA, I was climbing in the Arsenal when a visiting German climber got on the route. He hangdogged his way up to the crux and promptly popped in the crux changing knee bar screaming down "there a knee bar up here, it's a rest!". My eyes nearly popped out of my skull thinking "knee bars, WTF?" BTW - I don't remember where that Russian bolt hanger came from.
By benjaminleaton
From: Sandy, UT
May 24, 2013

Pump-o-rama Video
.
By James Cranston
From: Boulder, CO
3 days ago
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Mega! Tons of fun! This is a Rifle testpiece, which will put you through the gauntlet of extremely polished to non-existent feet, larger moves, and knee bar trickery. Rifle classic that exemplifies the cryptic and ego-thrashing style of the canyon.

You will wait in line to get on this. You will be sprayed on. Other climbers will piss all over the route, completing their 132nd lap of the grease-fest. Embrace it, because that's part of the classic Rifle Pump-O-Rama experience.

For optimal send conditions wait right before sunset when the rock is at its coolest so you don't grease off.

Keeping your cool through the upper crux unlocks the send.

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