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Nouveau Reach aka Jeff's Third Climb aka Photo Art S 
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YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Alan Nelson
Page Views: 822
Submitted By: Alan Nelson on Apr 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: The route.


Bring your edging shoes and a hefty load of power for this improbable face exercise. Moderate moves get you to the fourth clip, which topropes the crux. Step back down, then right onto small but positive edges. Pull up, lock off, reach, and high step (far easier said than done) to unlock the crux. A fingery .11 crank leads to jugs and a ledge. A fun, steep, juggy face finishes to the anchors. This route is a memorial to Pumpkin Nelson, longtime feline companion of the author, who passed away Spring 2001. Pumcat, we miss you.


Eight bolts to a two bolt anchor with rings.

Photos of Pumcat Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Utilizing the 10+ corner to the left.
Utilizing the 10+ corner to the left.

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By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jul 23, 2001

This is a nice line with a tricky, powerful sequence. The wall is either exactly vertical or a tad sub-vertical, and the crux is initiated off what amount to good hands. A ridiculously bad right foot converts what might be a 5.10 move into either an awkward dyno or an even more awkward cross through. This sequence was actually quite funny. It begins by pulling a lock off to just about level with the shoulder. The target hold would seem to close enough to bite, but it is a real fight to let go with either hand. A dyno from below is the way most people are likely to solve this problem. This is a fun route, on good stone, well protected, and is by no means a "one-move-wonder".
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Feb 13, 2002

We jumped on this route on Feb 10th to learn why there was wide variance in the grade reported by others (5.10 to 5.12b). It appears that many will stem onto the adjacent dihedral using a crack on the left for the hands. This version does drop the rating to 10+. For the purist, climbing without the corner or crack can indeed bring the difficulty into the 5.12 range. Furthermore, running the sequence without stepping into the route on the right entails using the triangular pod (4th or 5th clip) in 180 degrees of rotation. I believe that this is what Alan had in mind in the first place.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Feb 15, 2002

Pumcat will probably be done most frequently by using the stem and the crack because it is possible to clip the gear from the left. Straight up on the face is committing and more likely to result in failure since it entails several hard moves in a row. I'd keep the rating right where it is, for the intended solution to the problem; however, there will be folks calling it 5.10. They just solved a different problem using the same gear.

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