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Pulpit Pooper T 
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Pulpit Pooper 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jim Orey and Jack Roberts (June '72)
Page Views: 125
Submitted By: Bryan G on Sep 21, 2014

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is on the east side of Pulpit Rock and gets shade in the afternoon. It's not quite as good as The Sermon, but is perhaps the next best route to the summit.

On the right end of the east face you will see a super obvious arching jam crack near the arete. This beautiful splitter is gained via a traverse in from the left. Start the same as Original Sin (10c steep groove), but about 20 ft up, traverse 15ft across the face to the right to get under the crack. Be mindful of how you place and extend your gear for the traverse or you'll pay with major rope drag later on. After another body-length of face climbing you gain the handcrack which passes through a small roof, then turns from fists to offwidth as it arches to the left. There are a couple slung chockstones, but you'll also want a couple larger cams for this section. Belay on a large ledge.

The second pitch moves to the left and up a short steep corner (5.6) with juggy flakes. Then scramble up easy 5th class to the summit.
The bolted rap anchor can be found on the opposite side of the summit boulders. Two single rope rappels lead back down to the notch.

Protection 

A single set of cams from 0.5 to 4.5" (#5 Camalot) and some long runners to extend your pro on the traverse (a couple double-length ones will help). You could bring a couple extra 3-4" pieces if you want to sew it up.


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