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Pulp Friction T 

Pulp Friction 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c R

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 750', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c R [details]
FA: Peter Caracciolo, Cole Lawrence
Page Views: 164
Submitted By: petercaracciolo on Feb 15, 2016

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Description 

Pulp Friction is a grade III traditional route. 750′ feet of steep, featured climbing on high quality rock makes this route a Bitterroot classic. Pitch 4 climbs into one of Mill Creek's nicest corners. Anchors through pitch 4 are bolted. Please carry extra webbing to replace weathered anchors. Please leave quick links and lockers!

Pitch 1-(5.9) Climb the delicate face up and right of the belay bolt. Climb to an obvious #5 placement and pull the bulge into a corner system. Climb crack and face to anchors.
Pitch 2-(5.10) Move through bush and up to a large block. Step up and right and follow obvious corner through roofs to anchor.
Pitch 3-(5.8) Climb crack up and right of anchor to easier ground. Work up and left onto ledge leading to 5″ crack.
Pitch 4-(5.11a) Climb through broken corner and up the face leading to the clean dihedral above. Continue up the corner on delicate jams and crimps. Follow the roof left into the corner, pull the bulge, and run the ramp up to the anchors.
Pitch 5-(5.12a or 5.10 C2 or 5.11R) Traverse right off anchor ledge underneath roof and flake to an incipient crack system. Follow the crack up the face either aiding or blasting. If free climbing, be ready to place tenuous RP’s. FFA variation: climb up into the seam until the climbing stiffens and it is possible to traverse right on easier ground. Climb around the corner and up onto a large boulder. Turn back left around the corner and blast through (5.11R)
Pitch 6-(5.9) Climb up and left from anchors through grainy rock to ledge. Move and place gear carefully. From ledge climb up obvious corner on large jugs and crack.

  • Note* The hangers at the top of pitch 5 where removed by an unknown party. They have not been replaced. Climb through the stance at the studs up into a roof and build an anchor. This makes pitch 5 very heads up, DFU!

Location 

Pulp Friction is located in the mega left facing corner system directly up canyon form the Dihedrals East section of the Lower Tier. You can easily rap the route from the top of pitch 4 with two 60m ropes. There are no bolts on the top, so plan to walk the No Sweat Arete descent back to the trail.

Protection 

1 set Stoppers, 2 sets Cams .33″-3″, 1 set Cams 4″-5″, TCU’s (RP’s, C3’s, and Offset cams if aiding pitch 5)


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