REI Community
Buzzard Rocks
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adam Kopley Memorial Route T 
Anonymous Flake Right T,TR 
Arêtetrifying S 
Arêtetrifying Right T 
Ass Cannibal T 
Bulge, The S 
Buzzard Guts T 
Cortez the Killer S 
Failure to Communicate S 
Half and Half S 
Kimberly T,S 
Like a Hurricane T 
Melungian Brotherhood S 
Obscure Adventure T,TR 
Prajapati S 
Pulp Friction T 
Raising Arizona S 
Rather be Sk8boarding T,S 
Three Amigos T 
Three Amigos Direct T 
Three Amigos Double Direct T 
Unknown 1 T 
Zig Zag T 

Pulp Friction 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
Season: All year, but hot in the summer
Page Views: 3,095
Submitted By: Keegan Dimmick on Jan 13, 2009  with updates from Nick Leiby and 1 more

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (39)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Super fun slab route. Three new leaders were able ...


Great route to test out your friction climbing. 5.8 climbing though the first four bolts will bring you to the crux and the fifth bolt. A few friction moves and you begin the runout to the finish. Bring some gear if you're not comfortable after the last bolt. It's around thirty feet to the top.


This route is twenty feet to the right of Three Amigos. It is the first bolted route you will find when descending the climbers' trail. GPS 33850 13838.


Four bolts and some pro. Two bolt anchor and rings at the top.

Photos of Pulp Friction Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: just past the 2nd bolt. some really fun friction c...
just past the 2nd bolt. some really fun friction c...
Rock Climbing Photo: After ledge and bolt at eyelevel this slab makes y...
BETA PHOTO: After ledge and bolt at eyelevel this slab makes y...
Rock Climbing Photo: looking up pulp friction after clipping the first ...
looking up pulp friction after clipping the first ...

Comments on Pulp Friction Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mark Maier
Nov 5, 2011
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

I didn't see five bolts on this route, although that is what this and the PATC guide say. There were enough, at least at the crux. The difficulty varies a lot below the crux if you move a few feet to the right or left.
By Jake Jones
From: Richmond, VA
Jul 15, 2013

I agree. The "hard parts" can be circumvented pretty easily. If you follow the bolt line directly (I didn't see 5 bolts either) it's defintely 5.9 with the thinnest moves IMO between the 1st and 2nd bolts. Eases up significantly after that.
By TyrelJ
From: Alexandria, VA
Aug 11, 2014

Did this route over the weekend, it looks as if it is down to 3 bolts. The empty bolt hole for what should have been the 3rd bolt is fairly obvious, distance between the last two bolts isn't bad, definitely a bit of a runout to the top though.
By Edwin B
Nov 23, 2014

Missing bolt has been replaced. Please let me know if you find any other bolt issues.
By Colin Dandridge
From: Golden
Feb 8, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

There should be 3 bolts unless someone recently added a 4th. The true line is straight up the middle for 5.9
By Keith Baker 1
Jan 28, 2017

Route had four bolts as of January 28 2017

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About