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Pulp Friction 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Dave Thomas & Antoinette Frates - May, 1996
Page Views: 4,633
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Oct 21, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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so smooth... the climber ;)

Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


Yet another slab climb. A brief blank section by the fourth bolt leads to a shallow hueco. Angle slightly left after the last bolt to the chains.


8 bolts to a chain anchor.


Across from the dramatic, overhanging, tiger-striped wall that contains "Namaste" is a beautiful grey slab (the Marmot Slab). This area currently contains 6 lines. From left to right they are:

Unknown Project: Only two bolts thus far.

Extremely Tough Slab: 5.11d with a 5.13 extension (rumored).

Pins and Needles: 5.11a. - tan bolt hangers.

Pulp Friction: 5.10c. - about 75 feet right of Pins and Needles and 5 feet left of a left-facing flake.

Sand Surfin': 5.10b - also left of a left-facing flake. Currently a cracked hanger at bolt #2 and potentially very dangerous.

Self Abuse: 5.9 and a variation of Sand Surfin' that begins at it's third bolt and dodges off straight left to another line of bolts.

All of the climbs are generally well-protected slabs of varying difficulty proportional to the steepness of the wall. I recommend starting with Sand Surfin' (skip Self Abuse) and working your way left down the wall until you get shut down.

Photos of Pulp Friction Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: palming through the crux
palming through the crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeremy on the friction
Jeremy on the friction
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff Jones on Pulp Friction.
Jeff Jones on Pulp Friction.

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By Perin Blanchard
From: Orem, UT
Nov 20, 2007


Friction slab climbing with sloping handholds, followed by a short, fairly blank section at the fourth bolt. After the blank section is a shallow hueco contained in more featured rock.

Continue up the now lower-angled rock through the next few bolts. After the eighth bolt angle left a bit toward the chains.


Marmot Slab is the gray, slabby sandstone on the north side of the canyon across from the dramatic, orange-and-black striped, overhanging wall that contains Namaste.

Pulp Friction is located about 5 feet left (downcanyon, west) of a left-facing flake. About 75 feet left of Pulp Friction is Pins and Needles, which has tan bolt hangers. Note that Sand Surfin' is also located immediately left of a left-facing flake — there is a small roof on the flake to the right of Sand Surfing and Pulp Friction is downcanyon from Sand Surfing.
By Michael Burke
Oct 26, 2015

Assuming I was on the correct climb,a 70m rope was not enough to get back to ground. Note, the climb was ~40m with only 8 bolts, seemed a bit ran out.
By JoeyJa
Mar 21, 2016

Well protected for a slab route, especially during the crux.
I wish the entire climb was like the blank section at bolt 4! Didn't have time to try pins and needles between climbs at Namaste, but this one was still good!
By alex carey
Jun 27, 2017
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

70 meters was plenty of rope. There was a large gap from the last bolt to the anchor, but its 5.6 climbing at most, hardly call it runout. I was only able to see 7 bolts at the bottom and found the 8th while I was up there.

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