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Pulp Culture Wall
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Bombay Deluxe T 
Pulp Culture T 
Pulp Culture S 
Weiner Dog Butts S 

Pulp Culture 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: David Whitelaw, Amy Johnson 1990
Page Views: 158
Submitted By: Mat Brunton on Aug 9, 2015

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Jess on Pulp Culture

Description 

A very long route on high quality Hatcher granite. From the belay bolt traverse right across a tundra ramp to a small corner (or very fat and large flake) with a crack that goes up and then right; it is initially wide but thins as it goes right. There is serious exposure and no pro on the tundra ramp traverse, but the climbing is easy. Make your first placements in the crack, following it up and right to the first bolt. Follow spaced bolts traversing right and up. The bolts transition from diagonal to more vertical as you ascend. Extended draws are recommended for initial pro and all but the last bolts to reduce rope drag. At the top, walk across a large tundra ledge to a new two bolt anchor with rings shared with Black Dog and Bombay Deluxe.

This climb is also described in the Zydeco Wall/Falcon Slab area by another MP user, but it is not on that wall. The Pulp Culture Wall, where the Pulp Culture climb is located, is in a different but adjacent area.

Location 

The furthest right climb on the Pulp Culture wall. Starts to the right of and below Bombay Deluxe at a lower piece of exposed slab with a belay bolt. A short, steep thrash through vegetation gets you to this spot.

Protection 

Pro to 2" for the initial crack (1 bigger placement in the more vertical section and 1 smaller placement in the more horizontal section should suffice). 9 old (but seemingly solid) and spaced-out buttonhead bolts take you to the top.


Photos of Pulp Culture Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jess nearing the top of Pulp Culture
Jess nearing the top of Pulp Culture
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulp Culture is a long climb
Pulp Culture is a long climb

Comments on Pulp Culture Add Comment
Show which comments
By Griswald
Aug 10, 2015

Any reason for listing this climb for a second time?
By Mat Brunton
Aug 10, 2015

Um, it's not on the Zydeco Wall/Falcon Slab...
By Griswald
Aug 10, 2015

Your right. I will delete it.