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Pulling Chest Hair 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R [details]
FA: Jake Marlow, Austin Yeoman, Beau Byrd
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 110
Submitted By: jake marlow on Jul 18, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Austin starting on the R rated traverse

Description 

I am not really sure if this is a first ascent or not so if you know do tell!

Eager to relish in the irony of climbing a crack in a fantastic sport area, we decided to climb a crack. The first part is a pretty straight forward left side in chimney. The hand crack starts going around the slight bulge with solid holds until you top out into some plants and dirt. Chimney up a little more until you are level with the anchors for route 214 in the book. This is where the fun part starts (hence the R rating). Place pieces where ever possible. I placed a blue dragon cam and a #3 nut in a flake in in the chimney and used 120cm slings to alleviate rope drag. Traverse on marginal protection yet surprisingly secure holds to the route 214 anchors and descend.

Location 

In between routes 215 and 216

Protection 

What I used:

purple power cam
yellow link cam
#4 camp hex
little blue dragon cam on a 120cm sling
#3 trango nut also on a 120cm sling

in that order.


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