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This is possibly the best 5.7 range trad route in the area. It is #18 on the Mormon Hollow general page, but it deserves a name and description! It follows a stunning crack system through a wide variety of holds, from slopers to finger cracks to pocket side-pulls. It is definitely worth climbing. The crux is near the birch tree 2/3rds of the way up.
From Tree Crack
(past the big dead tree you walk through), walk up into the gully to your right to the base of a slabby boulder. Climb the boulder and traverse over the cave exit up into the crack system.
To get down, either rap off the chains or climb up and come back down a climber's trail in the gully right next to the route. Enter the cave for a fun sidetrack!
Basic trad rack: small to medium nuts and cams. There are chains at the top for rappelling and top rope, but don't top rope through them please. One bolt was loose at the time of writing.
By Jay Shultis
From: Oneonta, NY
Sep 7, 2011
This is a pretty good climb but past the birch tree it is pretty dirty with moss and lichen etc, needs more action to stay clean. The better climb is the direct 5.9+ with the same start. The direct line has anchors just over the top that are not visible from the ground.
By Russ Keane
Jul 3, 2014
Great climb. Imposing-looking from the ground and a stiff challenge for the grade but lots of solid hands and feet, with varied movement and great aesthetics.