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Puke 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 255'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 1961
Page Views: 43
Submitted By: Sean Maher on Sep 5, 2016

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5 m up Puke (corner option)

Description 

A long fun route marked by a 9 m crux of balancey face climbing below a roof.

P1: climb straight up a series of short black faces or the left-facing corner, then head slightly left across a large vegetated ledge to belay at the right side of a striped wall. (24 m)

P2: climb up and right using a groove and some potentially mud-filled holds to gain a horizontal break beneath the roof (crux). pass this by traversing left and belay (9 m)

P3: climb straight up off the belay into a groove, upon clipping the first piton make a heady traverse right until gaining a short corner. From the piton at the top of this corner head up and left on balancey ledges, then bash your way up through bushes. Belay at an ash tree below a small corner and roof (also the last belay of Gronk)

P4: bypass the roof on the left and finish up a muddy gully to gain the park.

Location 

find a path through brambles near the left side of the main crag, start near some small boulders behind the large tree

Protection 

Standard rack, mostly nuts and small cams


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By Sean Maher
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Sep 5, 2016

the first and second pitches are easily linked at ~35 m

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