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Puff Aider 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A2

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 250', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A2 [details]
FA: Dan D., solo
New Route: Yes
Season: Year-round
Page Views: 158
Submitted By: Nathan W. on Feb 27, 2015

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half way up pitch 1.

Always check road conditions and peregrine closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Puff Aider is a good route to Learn aid on and practice tying off pins. The first pitch starts with a bolt ladder that leads into a seam with numerous fixed pins some of which are sticking out half way. Continue up the crack through pins and small placements to a couple bolts that take you to the next crack which is all gear placements to the anchor. It's A2 because you'll be slinging half-driven pins for a few moves with small placements in between, that being so, you might want to bring a hammer in case any of the pins are loose, which after a season have loosened enough to wiggle.

The second pitch is an awesome crack that goes free at 5.10. Superb but painful jamming so be sure to bring tape! Hand jams, fist jams, lie backing, and finger jams take you up to a three-bolt anchor. Two double-roped rappels gets you to the ground.

Location 

When arriving at the main wall make a left and start up the gully. The route is not far up the gully, look for the bolts and the seam with pins sticking out

Protection 

Small gear for the first pitch, micro TCUs and nuts. Be sure to bring plenty (10-15) of tie-off loops for the half-driven pins and a hammer to re-drive any if they're loose. Doubles of fingers to fists for the second pitch. Two 60m ropes


Photos of Puff Aider Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: looking up pitch 2
looking up pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: No tape, rock and roll.  Nate on the painful secon...
No tape, rock and roll. Nate on the painful secon...

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