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Pucker Up 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Mike Head
Page Views: 1,175
Submitted By: Luke Bertelsen on May 19, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Coach Jon hamming it up for the camera at the mid ...

Description 

This is the middle of three routes on the wall, all of which climb a beautiful red overhanging face. I thought the climbing was pretty thuggish when compared to some of the more technical face climbs in the surrounding cliffs - big moves between fair holds with some Mt. Lemmon micros thrown in for good measure. There is good climbing the whole way.

Protection 

12 bolts to a chain anchor.


Photos of Pucker Up Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jesse Schultz savors a rest prior to the crux.
Jesse Schultz savors a rest prior to the crux.

Comments on Pucker Up Add Comment
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By RyanJohnson
From: Tucson, Arizona
Jan 16, 2014
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

EDIT: FAist is fine with the additions.

Bummer. The first ~30 feet of 5.8/9ish crack used to require a couple pieces of gear, now it's bolts all the way down.
By Luke Bertelsen
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 18, 2014

Ryan,

I added the 4 bolts. I spoke with Mike H., and he told me that they never climbed the bottom section at all. Thus, he was fine with it.

Also, IMO, bolting the bottom of this climb is totally in line with current trends both on Lemmon and elsewhere. Why bolt a beautiful face and not the 35 ft. leading into it? Maybe now this thing will get traffic.

For what it's worth, I also added a rap anchor so you can low angle rappel out of the gully, down towards Nang, because it is very loose and a pain to climb down.

We gathered a full bag of trash out of that same gully a few weeks back.

Luke
By RyanJohnson
From: Tucson, Arizona
Jan 18, 2014
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Luke,

My only concern was added bolts without permission/discussion. I had asked around and learned that you and Mike had talked about the additions as well. I was more interested in avoiding another Chihuahua Power-gate. I think Pucker Up is a great route, whether it be fully bolted or with a few pieces of pro. As for current development trends, I don't hold any strong positions. FAist can do what they want.

Thanks for all the work cleaning up The Gallery!
By Dominic Weinstock
Jan 18, 2014

Id say good call on the bolt adition.....got on the route today and was darn fun but wouldnt have been worth the trouble of bringing a rack to protect the "approach" climbing.....especially since it was rainin kitty litter.......thanks luke....i look forward to sending that beast.
By Dominic Weinstock
Jan 18, 2014

And thank you for the rap bolt......that likely saved me an ass slide out of there.
By Alex Kirkpatrick
Feb 24, 2014
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

Classic! Thanks for the new bolts Luke