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Routes in Primo Wall
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Battle With a Bush T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Breakfast Club S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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City Slickers S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Crying Flyboys S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Doomsday Birthday T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Eternal Recurrence S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Flying Child S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Flying Cowboys S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Grim Aura S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Groan Up S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Halle-Bop S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Hangman S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Hooves! T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Inner Gorilla S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Killer Pillar S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Less Happy Fun Time S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Mildage S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Mirthmobile S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Moving Out S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Portrait in Flesh S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Portraits of Gorillas S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Primetime To Shine S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b |
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Primeval S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Problem Child S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Public Play S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Public Solitude S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Public Suck Shine S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Relative To Standing S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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River Run S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Shine S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Squeeze Play S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Squeezing My Will to Live S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Suburban Cowgirls S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Sucking My Will to Live S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Sucking My Will to Squeeze S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Super Happy Fun Time S 5.14b/c 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b |
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Suspended Sentence S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Tater Tot S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Nick Duttle? |
| Page Views: | 1,599 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned on Nov 17, 2009 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures/CDOT Road Work
Details
Please be aware of the annual raptor seasonal closures!
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Raptor Closures Effective February 1-July 31
Visit: jeffco.us/open-space/news/2…
Tunnel 1 closure
For more details visit: jeffco.us/open-space/alerts…
The two areas Jefferson County Open Space intends to close in Clear Creek Canyon, shown on the attached maps, encompass the active eagle nests. If the Clear Creek eagles continue to nest in the active nests, these areas will remain closed from February 1 through July 31. If the eagles choose different nesting sites, the closures will be adjusted accordingly to protect those eagles during their breeding season.
Currently, rock climbing areas that fall inside of the seasonal raptor closures include:
Blonde Formation
Bumbling Stock
Evil Area
Ghost Crag
Highlander
Skinny Legs
Stumbling Block
Tetanus Garden
Fault Caves
June 7, 2021 - TBD: Highway 6 is currently doing full road closures from Sunday night to Friday morning every week. The closure is from the junction of Highway 119 and Highway 6 to the junction of Highway 40 and Highway 6 (mile post ~260 to ~257). Vehicles that remain in the closure will be towed at owners expense.
Sundays: 7PM-4AM
Monday-Thursday: 4PM-4AM
Access Issue: Private Property - be aware & respectful
Details
Per Tzilla Rapdrilla: Primo is actually on private land.
Update: per Daniel Dunn, Stewardship Manager, Boulder Climbing Community ((803) 443-8822): this crag is on private property. The landowners are aware of the climbing on their property and continue to allow access for rock climbers. It is critical for long term access that everyone who climbs here is respectful and does their part to keep the crag in good shape. For more information on how to be a good steward, check out the Climber's Pact from Access Fund.
Update: per Daniel Dunn, Stewardship Manager, Boulder Climbing Community ((803) 443-8822): this crag is on private property. The landowners are aware of the climbing on their property and continue to allow access for rock climbers. It is critical for long term access that everyone who climbs here is respectful and does their part to keep the crag in good shape. For more information on how to be a good steward, check out the Climber's Pact from Access Fund.
Description
Another "brilliant" primo wall link-up. As far as I know, Nick is the first person to do this one: start on Public Solitude to the jug after the crux, traverse right into Sucking My Will to Live, do a few moves of that route, continue traversing into Shine , and finish on that route. Adds several cruxes onto P.S., making it harder than Public Play, so it might actually be .13c. In Nick's words: "Harder than Public Play but way more retarded."
Protection
The draws are all in place. There's seven clips not counting the anchors. It is recommended to skip the last draw of Shine to avoid massive rope drag. The fall from the top is long and a little sideways but safe.
Photos
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