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Climb up to a high first bolt in the middle of the face, I did not find any gear before the bolt. After the bolt move up on some right facing holds to a slanting pocket/slot feature that will take a cam in the best part, so don't pace it untill your ready to move on. Make some interesting moves up to good holds at lip of a small bulge and the second bolt. More difficult moves gets your feet up and over the bulge. Follow a seam feature up that takes a stopper in a place or two. Higher you can get a cam in a V-notch on your way to the anchor.
The route up the center of the left most wall at Alcohol South.
The climb is now fully bolted. However the original two bolts are still original. The one at the crux (4th) looks quite rusty but it is 3/8". Chain anchor.
By Bob Graham
Nov 13, 2010
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
I agree with Lee no gear before first bolt worth using anyways, although one of the pockets might take a tricam if you think to bring some. I enjoyed the climbing though, pretty interesting moves.