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Public Image 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Randy Atkinson, Dean Hart, Bruce McDonald (1985)
Page Views: 629
Submitted By: Travis McClinchey on Aug 28, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: The start of P2.

Description 

A high-quality route featuring plenty of wide crack; testing your skills in off-width and chimney climbing. It is a unique climb for Squamish and a real gem!

The route ascends the obvious wide chasm to the left of Parallel Passages on Astro Ledge.

All belays are bolted.

P1: Scramble up to a splitter tight-hands crack in a small left-facing corner. Climb this, enter the chasm and find the anchor in a nice alcove. 5.11a

P2: The business! Steep, but secure climbing leads to the base of the obvious roof (crux). Clip a bolt to the left of the roof and make a couple burly moves. Easier, but physical climbing brings you to another comfy anchor. 5.11c

P3: Continue climbing the wide crack. Once it starts to feel hard, features present themselves on the right. Lots of fun! 5.10c

P4. Continue climbing the wide chimney until the end. Adventurous. 5.10b

Rappel the route with double ropes. Alternatively, continue up North North Arete or Parallel Passages.

Protection 

Singles: BD #0.3, #0.4 and #6
Doubles: BD #0.5 to #5
10-12 draws (at least a few extendables)


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By Raddam6
From: Salt Lake
Jul 5, 2016

The #6 piece was crucial. Do not go without it. I had a single #5 cam and at no point felt in need of another. The 2nd pitch has 2 bolts even though the cams are bomber. I think I placed the 5, bumped it, found a bolt then back cleaned the 5 and didn't use it again.
By npaolini
From: Vancouver, BC
Jun 26, 2017

Awesome climb. Nice and shady, so it's cool even on a hot afternoon.

An extra #1 is nice for the first pitch. You could place a lot of #1's if you wanted to. 1 #5 was enough.I'm not sure why they placed the second and third bolt on the crux pitch in a perfectly protectable part of the crack, but not at the top where it's too wide for the #6.. Also, don't trust those wedged blocks in the crack. Some are huge and look stable, but more than one moved on me!

Climbing New Life into this makes for a lot of good climbing.

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