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Unsorted Routes:

Public Enemy 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Wade Griffith, Pat Fleming, Mark Jenkins
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,561
Submitted By: Wade Griffith on Aug 30, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Bret entering the crux.

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is located on Blair I next to Raised on Robbery - a Bob Scarpelli classic. It starts on some 5.9 hands angling left until you can clip a bolt out right to gain the flared traverse. At the end of the traverse, head up the thin crack until you make a tricky switch into the sustained hand crack above.

Location 

This route is located on Blair I next to Raised on Robbery.

Protection 

Small to hand-sized gear and a couple of QDs.


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By Charles Cundiff
Aug 8, 2010

Found a green extender on the second bolt. Looks like it had been there for awhile, but if it was left on purpose (for working the route) let me know. Seems like a waste to leave 2 biners and an extender to bail with.
By Elijah Flenner
Aug 21, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I traverse much lower than shown in the picture, all the way to where the horizontal ends.

A couple of hard moves protected by the bolt, then sustained, but easier, to the top.
By erik rieger
From: Ridgway, CO
Sep 3, 2013

Classic route. Not 10a, as the newest guidebook states—that's hilarious. 11b/c feels right.
By Wade Griffith
Dec 13, 2013

This gets a 10a rating in Zach's guide? I really do not understand how he came up with that. He did not do his research very well in some circumstances.
By Jeff R.
From: UT
Sep 22, 2014

I always thought this climb was more difficult than 10a, but after looking at the up-to-date guide, I thought I might be wrong in my thinking (after not climbing the Voo in sometime). Upon leading the route I reaffirmed my previous beliefs as to the difficulty of the climb after hanging several times.
By Dave Holliday
Jul 9, 2015

The 10a rating in the Orenczak/Lynn guidebook is comical. At least it's not a dangerous sandbag as the route is very safe once the first bolt is clipped.

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