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The New River Wall
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Unsorted Routes:

Public Enemy 

YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.13c French: 8a+ Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]
FA: Brian Kimball
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 4,453
Submitted By: Brian Kimball on Sep 7, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Matt Lloyd climbing. Photo: Daniel Madson.

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


Climb straight up the right side of the wall using one old drilled pocket.


To be edited in.



Photos of Public Enemy Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: New River Wall.
BETA PHOTO: New River Wall.

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By Anonymous Coward
Sep 28, 2005

If Wade is establishing new routes, then expect the bar to be raised. 12d equates to the level he boulders at in flip flops.
By Adam Peters
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Nov 20, 2011

Someone unscrewed the hanger from the third bolt and left the hanger/quicklink/draw at the base. I found the nut and replaced the hanger with a new draw (I attached the sling that was on there to the first draw on the slab). Just wanted to know why this hanger was unscrewed? Oh, and I replaced the quick link with a big beefy stainless one. So psyched on this route and soooooo close to sending! Thanks for the revival of this crag, Brian!
By Train4life
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 2, 2015

On Public Enemy/Kinky Reggae, one of the hangers and permadraws DID, in fact, come out of the wall. One of my buddies is working on putting it back in and getting this route back to safe and operational!
By Stephen Felker
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 5, 2015

Keep a close eye on the bolt hangers on this wall. The steepness contributes to gradual loosening of the nut, and the long permadraws make it easy to not notice loose hangers.

Two hangers/draws actually fell off of Public Enemy. The third draw, counting the first clip on the slab, was rehung, but the fourth is still just a stud. This bolt may be tough to clip on RP anyway, but, in its current state, a fall from the dyno requires a really soft catch to kill the momentum and keep the climber from a hard pendulum onto the slab below.
By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 8, 2016
rating: 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a

This is a great route with fun movement. Power is the name of the game. Exciting and airy in its current state of missing a hanger and nut at the crux moves. Kimball, slice, and I tried to put it back on but found the stud to be stripped. It's safe to skip in its current state and clip the next, despite some previous comments. I took the whip and you end up well above the slab. Have fun. Get some!

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