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PTSDed 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Jon Tylka, December 1, 2013
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 351
Submitted By: Marta Reece on Jan 22, 2014

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Description 

Go up the corner, surmount the overhang, and continue on face, taking in some arete holds at the end.

The chains and couple of bolts existed for a number of years and were referred to as "V5 Project."

Location 

Between First Move and the Paw.

Protection 

Bolts to two-bolt anchor.


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By Andrew B. Ellis
Aug 7, 2017
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Played on this on TR earlier this year. Line was very chossy in many different sections. If you stay on the bolt line, important footwork is forced to be in areas that rain rock dust down on your belayer. The people in our group that worked it tended to head towards the crack system to the left of the crux and away from the bolt line for much easier, though unique, climbing ~10+ (placing them in a tricky spot if falling on lead, but on better rock).

Overall, I would say avoid this climb, Not very fun.

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