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Chicago Creek Rock
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YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 190'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: 1/13/04 Jamie Givens
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 918
Submitted By: Jamie Givens on Jan 13, 2004

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A view of Chicago Creek Rock, from the highway. PT...


Chicago Creek Rock has definitely seen some climbing activity in years past, unfortunately all lost to history. I feel this is a re-awakening of what can be a quality crag. PTSD (Post Traumatic Stress Disorder) will be a challenge if only for the route finding and loose rock. If you love brushing holds and shifting blocks, come on in. I rope-soloed the FA, and feel the name is accurate. It's not much to look at, but the exposure is decent. To get to the base of the route, follow the directions as for Bada Bing and Bada Boom. After you cross the steel bridge, bare to the right and head uphill until you are at the base of the obvious nose, near a telephone pole. The first pitch, if you want to call it that, starts up the ramp to the left (5.0 slab). You can probably solo/scramble up this. Once you come up to the base of the headwall and a huge ledge you are at the first belay. You will begin up just to the right of the most vertical section of the wall and directly below an orange lichen colored roof. The first 15 feet of this pitch is on bomber, knobby granite, then it shifts right to avoid a slight roof, moving diagonally up across some loose blocks. Be gentle on this section, and continue up to the second belay, situated in an obvious alcove right under the orange lichen covered roof. You'll find a fixed piton. From here, pull up and left over the roof(careful, it's covered in lichen) onto a small grassy ledge, and continue up to the top on easy ground. See pic for location of rap rings, or walk off.


Use a standard trad rack, plenty of good cracks for cams and nuts. The second belay has a fixed piton that seems pretty solid. Use a .25 Camalot or pink Tri-Cam in an obvious vertical crack to protect the small roof above the second belay.

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By Jamie Givens
From: Brooklyn
Jan 15, 2004

Sorry about the pic, I'll send another....
By Jamie Givens
From: Brooklyn
Sep 13, 2006

Thanks, Kirk, for the insight on the history of the crag. I searched for anything I could find, and turned up nothing. I apologize to the first ascentionists for the names I gave the routes I climbed. All my respect,


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