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Sector 1
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PTJ 

YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a R [details]
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Submitted By: Taino on Dec 22, 2006

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Description 

Two options here: Either the route is badly mismarked in the topo in the guidebook, or there is NO FOCKING WAY that this is a 10. The gear is damned-near non-existent (try R or X rating), with a ground-fall possible at nearly every stage.

I had to traverse WAY off-route to find a way up. If I'd stayed on-route, I wouldn't have been able to get nearly as far as I did. As it was, I didn't finish, and I can lead 17 trad. Yeah, it's just me, right? Wrong. The very next day someone else--much more experienced than I--tried the route, and had to lower off as well from the same spot.

Location 

Straight up from marker at bottom of climb.

Protection 

Very scarce, no carrot bolts, ground-fall potential at nearly every point.


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