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BETA PHOTO: The line through the crux pitch of "Pterodact...
From the top of the approach ridge (see "Avoiding the Issue" description: mountainproject.com/v/avoiding...
), traverse right a few hundred feet until a face with a hand/fist crack is visible about 100 feet above. Scamper to the base of this buttress and climb the hand/fist crack. 5.7, 30m.
From here, ledgy terrain separates steeper sections and makes for reasonable simul-climbing. Head left around the initial overhang, then continue straight up through occasional short/steeper terrain, ultimately aiming toward the bulging buttress in the top third of the wall. (See photo: mountainproject.com/v/11212199...
) Stop on a large ledge with a tree on the right and ample loose rock. 100m, 5.6 or less depending on terrain selection.
From this ledge, a short pitch leads to a belay stance just below and left of the bulging buttress, below the first small overhang, about 25 feet under the large friable roof on the right.
The money pitch:
From the belay, head up and slightly left through the initial overhang, then step back right to pull into the left-facing corner on the left side of the friable roof (difficult to see and place 0.5 in the base of the corner). Make a few moves up the corner then move back right to avoid the ominous-looking pile of stacked blocks guarding the top of the corner.
A hand traverse to the right leads to the arete and a bit of slapping up to the prow leads to the final overlap. A committing step-up while palming a no-hold undercling in a horizontal crack leads to the final thuggy moves as the terrain eases. Belay just past the final overlap at a good stance on a small ledge.
Bring singles to #3 or #4, with extra hand size pieces (#1 to #3). The protection is generally good; the seriousness derives from the fact that moves are made on the arete or right of it, while much of the protection is in the face to the left. This leads to stepping back and forth frequently. A fall could lead to a nasty whip across the arete and a significant pendulum into the corner. 5.10+ R, 30m.
Finish through the weaknesses to the left of the roofs above, following a line similar to the top of "Fits and Starts."
Start a few hundred feet right of the top of the approach ridge, below a hand/fist crack in the face about 100 feet up. The route ultimately aims for the overhanging buttress in the upper third of the wall.
Singles to #4, doubles in hand sizes. A larger rack allows for a longer simul-climb.