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Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+

Type:  Trad, Boulder, 15'
Original:  Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: Justin Edl and Davin Dagdonas, 2003
Page Views: 1,978
Submitted By: JNE on Oct 3, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>


This is a beautiful fifteen foot low ball splitter roof crack. It starts out as good tight hands and narrows all the way down to ringlocks at the lip, going to tips before rocking over the top of the boulder. Start as far back as possible. Incorrectly labeled Tyco Shop in the bouldering guide. It is named after an Alfred Bester/Roger Zelazny book. The Psychoshop is the black place of the soul changer.


This is located in the cluster of boulders behind (east of) Desiderata. It is under a low squatty boulder right under one of the biggest boulders over there. If you drew a straight line between the two, it is only about twenty or thirty feet away from Desiderata.


One pad is sufficient.

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By John Lombardi
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 19, 2016

It looks like there was a small flake in the fingerlock section that broke off. I watched a video of a guy on Psychoshop from ~2009, and after you pull the lip of the roof, you can see a chunk of rock in the crack that is no longer there.

This problem is so FUCKING sweet! Between this and Desiderata, you can get a great full body workout. Highly recommended.
Sep 26, 2016

That happened a few years ago. There was a piece of rock lodged in the crack, which served as a hand hold/finger lock combination for the crux, which apparently broke off when someone grabbed it.

Just FYI, the difficulty did not really change when this happened, as the flared pod which is there now is slightly harder to hold onto (at least for me), but it also made the last standup move just slightly easier.

Glad to hear of people enjoying these problems. :) Also, seriously, be careful at Desiderata, and please check the climb each time to be sure the rock is stable and has not slid. :)

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