|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 75'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||Greg Hand, Hunt Prothro, Herb Laeger|
|Submitted By:||Jeremy Steck on Nov 12, 2007|
|Comments on Psychoprophylaxis||Add Comment|
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By Jeff McLeod
Sep 20, 2015
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
A cool route, flagrantly sandbagged, with a serious upper section. The crux for me did not take place at the end of the crack, but pulling over the bulge up and left of the first overhang.
The last 20-30 feet of this route isn't just thin on gear - I found not a single serviceable piece, and the climbing is nontrivial. It's vertical and involved, and if you feel a bit pumped from the more difficult climbing below, it becomes a very serious lead very quickly.
Also, this route (along with Great Imposter) tops out on a leftward-sloping ramp covered with fist-sized rocks, and there is a cache of dinnerplate-sized debris just sitting right under the anchors. Be VERY careful up there not to knock any of this stuff off as you belay, lower, rappel, whatever.