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Psychonautics 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Shylo
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 887
Submitted By: Echoinfi on May 15, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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BETA PHOTO: Climb the obvious corner. The arete to the right ...

Description 

Just left of Scifentology is a very large beautiful corner. This is Psychonautics. Stick clip the 1st bolt or boulder up tufa like pinches to a crimpy technical corner. Once you are in the corner keep on your toes to the top. I have a feeling this route will be very popular.

Location 

Left side of the cliff.

Protection 

6 Glue-ins to a lower off.


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By Spainman
May 21, 2016

First of all, thank you Greg for the route. I tried it today and I think it is 5.9++++ technical moves at the beginning and very cool ending. The route makes you think about the sequence.
Buen trabajo amigo.
By swimj
Aug 13, 2016
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I think this is the best of the 5.9's in the quarry. Was a bit intimidated at first by the comment above calling the climb "5.9++++". Start is indeed technical, but personally find 5.9 to be a very fair grade. Thanks for the awesome route!
By Andrew Hurst
Aug 26, 2017

Just leading this (without stick clipping or anything) feels sketch, but on very solid rock, and a good climb. Wish it were longer, but that's what the climbs down to the right are for. Solid bolts. Tree makes for a weird belay, but that's how climbing outside works. Thanks very much for this climb!!

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