REI Community
Old Quarry Walls
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A B-Boy's Alpha S 
Bloodstain, The S 
Cloud Surfari S 
Cloud Surfing S 
Crackrock Corner S 
Desparête   S 
Devil's Cut S 
Evil Beauty (Closed Proj) S 
Fiendish Following S 
Golden Ghetto, The S 
Happiness Is a Warm Drill S 
People's Rock, The S 
Psychonautics S 
Run For Cover S 
Scifentology S 
Slightly Removed S 
Tasmanian Pain Coaster S 
Tax Evasion Haven S 
Traxamillion S 
Tree of Knowledge, The S 
Tree of Life, The S 
Winning and Losing S,TR 


YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Shylo
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 887
Submitted By: Echoinfi on May 15, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Climb the obvious corner. The arete to the right ...


Just left of Scifentology is a very large beautiful corner. This is Psychonautics. Stick clip the 1st bolt or boulder up tufa like pinches to a crimpy technical corner. Once you are in the corner keep on your toes to the top. I have a feeling this route will be very popular.


Left side of the cliff.


6 Glue-ins to a lower off.

Comments on Psychonautics Add Comment
Show which comments
By Spainman
May 21, 2016

First of all, thank you Greg for the route. I tried it today and I think it is 5.9++++ technical moves at the beginning and very cool ending. The route makes you think about the sequence.
Buen trabajo amigo.
By swimj
Aug 13, 2016
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I think this is the best of the 5.9's in the quarry. Was a bit intimidated at first by the comment above calling the climb "5.9++++". Start is indeed technical, but personally find 5.9 to be a very fair grade. Thanks for the awesome route!
By Andrew Hurst
Aug 26, 2017

Just leading this (without stick clipping or anything) feels sketch, but on very solid rock, and a good climb. Wish it were longer, but that's what the climbs down to the right are for. Solid bolts. Tree makes for a weird belay, but that's how climbing outside works. Thanks very much for this climb!!

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About