REI Community
14 - M & M
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Conviction S,TR 
Corn Flakes TR 
Krakabra T,TR 
M&M T,TR 
No Sympathy T 
Pop Corn T,TR 
Psychoface T,TR 
Sonatine S,TR 

Psychoface 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: José Dionisio, Jean-Claude Neolet, June 1995
Page Views: 25
Submitted By: Luc-514 on May 21, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Krakabra

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Description 

Follow the corner to the right of Krakabra and exit to the bolts on the left

Protection 

3 bolts, small rack
bolted belay/rap


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By Jfaub
From: Ottawa, On
Sep 17, 2014

A great hand crack goes about half way up the wall, then angle left, make a switch from the security of the crack to some tenuous face. Pull off a tricky mantle (or just stand up - exciting) and then up the face for about 3 bolts. The crux comes when you can almost taste victory. You spot a juggy vertical fake/rail. But first you need to bring your feet up on smeary granite with microcrimps for handholds. Deadpoint extremely insecurely to the flake, or finesse your way up more mediocre holds and feet until you can reach it statically. A good pitch that will make you work on your slab technique!

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