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Psychobilly 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Richard Harrison, Lisa Harrison and Michelle Locatelli
Season: Any
Page Views: 3,218
Submitted By: Matt McMurray on May 22, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (94)
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Drew on the send

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is awesome! Probably one of the top four routes in the corridor if you can climb at this grade. Climb the easy holds up to the third bolts and then crimp your way to a great left handed undercling. This will require smearing you feet on the way up. There is a two finger pocket for your right hand, followed by a few more crimps as you move upward. The top section to the anchors is relatively easy climbing after the crux.

Location 

This line was bolted after Roxanna's new guide was published, so it is not included in her topo. It is the fourth route on the right as you enter the corridor from the lower approach, and follows the obvious thin crack to a huge undercling flake.

Protection 

Seven bolts to the new chain anchor.


Photos of Psychobilly Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The route up the center of the photo; notice the c...
BETA PHOTO: The route up the center of the photo; notice the c...
Rock Climbing Photo: Psychobilly
Psychobilly
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up from the base of the 5.11c at by the en...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up from the base of the 5.11c at by the en...

Comments on Psychobilly Add Comment
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By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 7, 2009
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

be mindful of the bad rock out left above the undercling at mid-height. going left and you risk causing rockfall (it happened twice today) on parties below. go straight up, despite the tough look of it, its not too bad.
By Christine Gal
From: henderson, nv
Mar 8, 2009

wear your helmets belaying this one. a fairly big piece came off yesterday
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Sep 28, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Just before the crux is (was) a good sidepull/gaston (depending on how you use it) that I completely tore off and nearly hit my belayer. I put a large "X" on the flaky thing and the rest of the hold will certainly pull sooner or later. Be careful. Bad ass crux moves!
By Edward Pyune
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 10, 2013

This climb deserves more stars. I don't want to give away beta (although my beta sometimes sucks :P), but the crux move was awesome and a rarity for sport climbing (at least what I have climbed at RR). Definitely doing it again
By Daniel Nelson
From: Jackson, WY
May 26, 2014

Very crimpy/smeary crux - unsure if something has broken off or maybe my sequencing was poor, but crux felt really hard compared to other 11a in the area. Climbing before and after was fun/easy.
By DayJohnson
From: AZ
Feb 18, 2015

The GIANT flake on the route sounds pretty darn hollow - pull gently!
By Jowell Bacon
Mar 14, 2016

Got shut down at the obvious crux. Guy after me got through after a few attempts with some interesting beta, but said the bottom left of the flake moved on him and is ready to go any day. Belayer should stand right of the flake at/after the crux.
By Ali Beach
From: Estes Park, Colorado
Nov 20, 2016

WARNING: the large flake that is a saving grace after the crimpy crux is ready to go. 3 huge white X's mark it. Without the flake, the moves between bolts become an easy 5.12 climb. I would use caution climbing this....The crux seems to have lost holds (?) and is maybe a harder climb than 11a.
By Eddie Ferrer
From: Portland, OR
Apr 19, 2017
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I don't know if some holds have broken off, but the crux of this felt very hard to me. I would say 11c+, possibly even 11d.

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