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Routes in Eagle Canyon
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Are You Lichen It? S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Bananarama S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Black Streak S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bunga Bunga S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Didgemaster S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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E Pluribus Cruxi Unum Pumpus S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Fantasy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Handsome Parish Lady S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Indecent Insertion S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Jug Abuse S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Killer Bee S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Kona S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Maalox Moment S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Manhattan S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mr. Wong's Zipper T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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New Wave S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Old Wave T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Omdulation Fever S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Pepto-Dismal S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Psycho Thriller TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Top Hat S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Turkey Baster S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Tutti Frutti S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Unnamed Left S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Unnamed Right S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | TR, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Rombach, Wezwick |
| Page Views: | 605 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Daniel Trugman on Aug 29, 2009 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
This is currently a toprope problem as the first five or six bolts have been chopped for unknown reasons. We accessed it by climbing "Bananarama" and traversing left to the chains.
Start as for Bananarama and move left under a small bulge at Bananarama's second bolt (Bananarama moves right at this point). Crank the crux sequence over the bulge with decent pockets for hands but poor feet and make a long move to a decent ledge. Rest up at the ledge and wind left and right up the 10- face to the anchors.
Fun, but kind of discontinuous.
Start as for Bananarama and move left under a small bulge at Bananarama's second bolt (Bananarama moves right at this point). Crank the crux sequence over the bulge with decent pockets for hands but poor feet and make a long move to a decent ledge. Rest up at the ledge and wind left and right up the 10- face to the anchors.
Fun, but kind of discontinuous.
Protection
7 bolts (most of which have been chopped) to chains
Currently, it is easiest to climb Banarama to set a TR on this, but this leaves a lot of rope drag. We pulled the rope through the quickdraws on Bananarama to minimize drag but obviously someone had to climb Bananarama afterwards to get these draws back.
Currently, it is easiest to climb Banarama to set a TR on this, but this leaves a lot of rope drag. We pulled the rope through the quickdraws on Bananarama to minimize drag but obviously someone had to climb Bananarama afterwards to get these draws back.
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