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Bonny and Clyde Wall- AKA Drifters Wall
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Psycho Spasm 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Jerry Roberts
Page Views: 743
Submitted By: Taylor Roy on Jan 27, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Mushroom hold at second bolt.

Description 

With some really cool holds, and thoughtful sequences, this slightly overhanging route slowly cranks up the difficulty, ending with a devious sloper crux on perfect rock.

An easy start leads to a distinctive mushroom hold at the second bolt. A three bolt, 12- section on knobs, and edges gets you to a rest just below the crux. Find a way through the slippery, slopey features, make a tough clip, and keep it together for the easier finish on iron knobs, and better slopers.

Location 

Just right of a wide 5.7 crack. Look for a mushroom hold near the second bolt.

Protection 

Bolts and a two bolt anchor. This hardware seems like it was replaced recently.

Although I wouldn't call this route runout, the bolts are kind of spaced out and you are required to climb above your bolts and make some hard clips.


Photos of Psycho Spasm Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Psycho Spasm 13a.
Psycho Spasm 13a.

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