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Psycho Killer 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
Page Views: 115
Submitted By: Josh Smith on Oct 30, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Psycho Killer is an amazing splitter up the otherw...


The 5.12 listed in "Rock and Road." A slight offset crack that slowly gets wider up a gently overhanging and featureless wall. The crux is tight greens through the overhanging section, with no feet. Short and straight forward; pure (and painful) crack climbing at its best.

The anchor is two Rawl 5 piece bolts right under the roof.


Splits the middle of the obvious blank wall.


(2) #0.5
(3-4) #0.75
(3-4) #1

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By Josh Smith
Oct 27, 2014

Information on who did the FA of this one would be appreciated.
By Eric Whitbeck
Oct 31, 2014

Josh, just rumor but I had always heard it was the gang that discovered the Enchanted Tower. Bertrand Garmont or something like that. Could be wrong. Rad route though. Don't forget the tape!
By Josh Smith
Nov 4, 2014

Thanks, Eric. Would be fun to know more history. What a difficult size--I couldn't decide between laybacking and climbing it straight on; pulling on cams ended up being the the most realistic strategy. Eager to get back on it.
By Eric Whitbeck
Nov 5, 2014

I used a combo of desperate and delicate laybacking and pulling on cams. I cannot jam it straight on because of the offset. Thanks for putting in the anchor.

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