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Psycho Groove 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Ken Black, 1983
Page Views: 1,586
Submitted By: Locker on Aug 17, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (45)
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BETA PHOTO: "Psycho Groove". Photo by Blitzo.


The route starts easy and quickly involves good footwork - smearing and occasional small edges. Fun moves in the thin, crux section. Eases up after the crux to good holds and good feet.


There is a single bolt at the crux. On top there are two good anchors. Walkoff is easy and to climbers left if facing Playhouse Rock. Not what I would consider a beginners route. Can be top roped with draws/slings/cordelette etc...

Photos of Psycho Groove Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Psycho Groove
BETA PHOTO: Psycho Groove
Rock Climbing Photo: Chris A - groovin'  The distinct line of I'm So Em...
Chris A - groovin' The distinct line of I'm So Em...

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By C Miller
From: CA
Aug 21, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A decent route that, despite the name, offers reasonable protection. The bolt was replaced spring 2000 and is 3/8".

By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Feb 16, 2008

Fun route. You can place a medium cam under the roof. Still, I wish this climb protected better; it's a long way above the crux to the next placement.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Oct 23, 2010

The route is good value ad to the area. Protects better than it looks and the slab area after the bolt is somewhat tenuous. It's good and both times to the crag never saw any traffic other than ours.
By Matthew Richardson
From: Durango, CO
Mar 12, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Thought the route was amazing. Great start and easier finish, have to be calm on the hard slab at the beginning, crux for me was after clipping the bolt.

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