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Psychic Turbulance 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 130'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Todd Skinner, Daniel Rosen, Beth Wald '84
Page Views: 1,579
Submitted By: m.b. on Sep 4, 2002

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A 5 Star Beauty...The route that is !!! Psycho Tur...

June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


Located 100 or so feet left of Carol's Crack on the north end of the west face. Felt like El Matador's big brother: technical stemming on lichen with no rests unless you have Lance Armstrong's calves.


2 sets of RPs and small and medium nuts with Friends up to #1.5

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By Anonymous Coward
Sep 19, 2004

Stongly consider double ropes for this route or take 10 to 12 over-the-shoulder-length slings as the protection is on two separate crack lines. Another understated Tower classic.
By Neil Kauffman
May 29, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Simply amazing! Some of the craziest stemming I've ever encountered! Fun TR, would be a demanding lead!
By slim
Jun 8, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

agreed, i remember the calf-pump almost blowing my eardrums out. awesome route.
By will smith
From: boulder
Sep 11, 2013

A route that is true to it's name. Double ropes for sure. You'll feel worked when you are done.
By Wally
From: Denver
Feb 12, 2014

Has anyone done this route in recent years? I had the fortune to get this really tough line many years ago. I spoke with the stud climbing ranger a couple of years ago - he said Psychic Turbulence needed some gardening work, and hadn't been climbed in years.

By slim
Feb 12, 2014
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

i did it memorial day weekend 2003 (not too recently). it had some scruffiness then too. i think it just doesn't get done much, which is a pity, as it is a really good route.
By Jordan Collins 1
Oct 5, 2016

Great pitch and Mega stemming the whole way, But no real difficult moves. About half way you will encounter 2 bolts in succession, Maybe 15 feet apart. As of 10/5/2016 The left crack is clean while the right crack is semi vegetated, However almost all the protection for the route is in the left crack so the shrubbery does not get in the way at all. This route is incredibly fun and definetely not 11b more like soft 11a. The hanging belay at the top of the first "5.7" pitch is rather horrible while belaying the leader on the crux. This route is cool.
By Lucas Barth
From: Devils Tower, WY
Sep 11, 2017

2nd pitch anchor and protection bolts on p2 have been replaced as of 8/2017

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