Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 6,796 ft
GPS: 43.7201, -113.07682
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 19,834 total · 241/month
Shared By: Mike Engle on Jul 24, 2017
Admins: Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn

Description Suggest change



Psychedelic Rock is a 200 foot crag that was originally part of the Burning Spear group. There are three original Dave Bingham routes in addition to the new routes being developed.

The crag has everything from smooth slabs to steeper pockets to steep chert pinching.

The wall has 3 distinct sections.

  1. The left side of the wall is characterized by a broad slabby section with smooth grey limestone and the occasional pocket. There are a few routes on this section.
  2. The central portion is 200 feet tall and from the ground there are 5 or 6 steep routes on featured limestone which all end on a broad grassy central ledge. Above the ledge is a blank looking, hundred foot face that is actually peppered with small chert. Named "The Wall", sustained, delicate face climbing and chert pinching is common to the 6 routes that start on the ledge (these are the 'Unsorted Routes' on the route navigation pane).
  3. The right side of the formation has a prominent right facing dihedral that goes nearly to the summit and to the right of the dihedral is vertical, yellow and orange rock that has a significant roof about midway up. Very featured vertical grey rock continues above the overlap.

Getting There Suggest change

Follow the trail out of the parking lot, staying left at the fork. After Gateway Rock, Psychedelic Rock is the first major crag encountered.

See the trail map.

The developed crags of Mortal Earth are visible from the parking, see the beta picture.

For another perspective, check out the aerial overview for trail and crag location.

19 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: 07. Psychedelic Rock Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Psychedelic Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
Time
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
Empty Spaces
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 16
The Flaming (c)Lips
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 23
Don't Bring Me Down
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Another Brick in the Wall
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 17
Us and Them
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 13
Total Eclipse
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 4
Jumping Jack Flash
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 7
Money
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 8
Let it Burn
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 25
Highway to Hell
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 87
Thriller
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 6
Matchhead
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 30
Turn to Stone
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Time
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Empty Spaces
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
The Flaming (c)Lips
 16
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Don't Bring Me Down
 23
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Another Brick in the Wall
 4
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Us and Them
 17
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Total Eclipse
 13
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Jumping Jack Flash
 4
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Money
 7
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Let it Burn
 8
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Highway to Hell
 25
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Thriller
 87
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Matchhead
 6
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Turn to Stone
 30
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Psychedelic Rock »

Sun & Shade Suggest change

Routes Mostly Face: East
Sunny Roughly 6am to 1pm during high season
6am
8pm
Details: The protected alcove with the routes Total Eclipse, Thriller, and Jumping Jack Flash get shade about an hour earlier than the rest of the crag.

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

0 Comments