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4. Moby Grape Area
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Psyche Dike Bradley Leblanc's variation 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 80', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
FA: ?
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 763
Submitted By: bradley white on Jun 23, 2011

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Van Ryan led the first pitch with intermittent pro below the large gaping A hole of Conn Dike. Found were 70's vintage pitons (5.7) left of a large block to more (5.7) until belay station. Not an exactly secure looking belay on two large blocks sitting there on the ledge. Okay. Loose stones were found and thrown down. I led the 2nd pitch. It started off right and up the dike on crumbly rock towards a pin. A decent right facing inside corner before left higher on traverse left the bugaboo pin not half-way in a crack. What a bad joke. I clipped into it. No picnic doing retreat. Got to lost on Cannon again. First thing a 30lb. loose block got thrown down. Next Van Ryan told me to go back towards the pin and climb down to another traverse ledge. That was okay I got in two #1 stoppers. More loose stones left as I went on left know pro was a joke until pro in the corner held me. I would stop near Van Ryan's belay. Did the awkward step down left onto a too small slope (5-8+). Very small sloping hand holds. lift right foot up to a vertical push off edge (5.8+). Van Ryan watched the controlled jump off from foot edge to get left foot high to hold below a large detached on King's Variation. "I didn't have a heart attack". From the block got lower to Mopy Grape (our goal).
Its been cleaned out of loose stones and has some excellent moves on it also but lacks enough pro.


Directly below the Conn Dike.


Standard Cannon rack. I'm staying off of it until I improve the protection. Would have been better led with 2 ropes.

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By Ryan Barber
From: Rumney, NH
Jun 26, 2011

By Ryan Barber
From: Rumney, NH
Jun 26, 2011

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